After two nights at the Las Cruces Field Station we traveled north, first through the town of San Vito and next down the valley of the Rio Coto Brus. That river was met by the Rio General, coming from the north, to create the Rio Terraba (which we had earlier crossed, near its mouth, as we had driven down the Pacific coast). From the Rio Terraba, we now drove up the valley of the Rio General, passing square miles of Del Monte pineapple fields. We had twice run the Rio General 30 some years prior, with the take-out near El Brujo. After a stop at El Brujo, we continued to San Isidro, and then began the 9000′ climb over the Cerro de la Muerte (Mountain of Death). Erich told us that the route was given this name when it was a hiking trail, rather than a road, due to the fact that there were cases of people who had died from hypothermia after getting caught in bad weather at or near the top of the climb (11,500′). We stopped at Restaurante La Georgina, at 10,000′, to see what hummingbirds were in attendance at their feeders.
The Rio Terraba, near El Brujo
We stopped at El Brujo after the river crossing
Same as above
The Restaurante La Georgina
The feeders were hung outside the windows seen here
Lesser Violetear. Photographing a hummingbird from a few feet away allows for getting a very crisp image.
Magnificent Hummingbird
Female Magnificent Hummingbirds
Volcano Hummingbird (front) and Lesser Violetear
Volcano Hummingbird
We had stopped here 30 years before, on the way to running the Rio General.
30 years ago it was the Restaurant Georgina …
and had beautiful wooden floors
We crossed over the pass, which allowed us a brief look at the treeless “paramo” – but a lack of pull-outs prevented photographing the area. After a short drive downhill from the pass, we took a left onto the narrow and very windy road that descended the valley of the Rio Savegre, and arrived at the Savegre Hotel.
We spotted this coatimundi as we neared the hotel
It was a very nice place!
Erich brings out the maps to our rooms
We photographed birds on the grounds of the hotel, which provided a fruit feeder, and on walks along the river.
Our rooms fronted a bird-rich mass of foliage, including gladiolas
Gladiola
This Slaty Flowerpiercer went quickly from one gladiola blossom to another. Note its beak.
Same as above
Here it is at work, piercing a gladiola blossom at its base
At the base of the stand of gladiolas was this Gray-breasted Wood-Wren. I looked for it after hearing its song, which is described in the guidebook this way: ” Its loud, lengthy, rollicking melody is one of the most commonly heard and attention-grabbing sounds in its habitat.”
Acorn Woodpecker
Yellowish Flycatcher, on an early morning walk
Long-tailed Silky Flycatcher
Peruvian Trumpet, in front of our room
The Rio Savegre
Same as above
Same as above
Same as above
Rainbow Trout, Rio Savegre
Tree roots, along the Rio Savegre, by Kathy Miller. Below: Movie of the Rio Savegre, by Kathy Miller.
Spot-crowned Woodcreeper
We left at daybreak on our first morning to hunt down the Resplendent Quetzals, and stopped at Don Raul’s establishment.
Don Raul’s sign
Don Raul, second from left, and the group. Success! He found the quetzals for us in trees on the steep hillside above and to the left. Paths led to the best viewing spots.
First, we saw this female
Higher on the slope, another female
Male quetzal
Same as above, and showing his tail plumes
Same as above
Same as above
Same as above
Same as above
Same as above. A digiscope photo with Erich’s scope and Kathy’s iPhone
As we returned downhill, we noticed this tree being used as an acorn repository by Acorn Woodpeckers
Greenhouse, photo by Kathy Miller
Same as above
Quetzal art work in progress, created from a tire, photo by Kathy Miller
A quetzal tail plume is shown us by Don Raul, photo by Kathy Miller
Another digiscope photo by Erich and Kathy, of a female quetzal seen along the river. Movie below: Vegetation on a fence post, by Kathy Miller
Stained glass quetzal at the hotel, photo by Kathy Miller
A dessert. The food was very good!
Oak forest, by Kathy Miller
Next door to the hotel was the “Feather Garden”, with many feeders, birds and a viewing area protected from the rain.
Feathers Garden
This and two photos below: Baltimore Oriole
Acorn Woodpecker
Costa Rica’s National Bird, the Clay-colored Thrush, in the rain
This and two photos below: Flame-colored Tanager
Violetear Hummingbird
Same as above
Violetear at a very clever feeder orifice
This and two photos below: Violetear Hummingbird
Mountain Thrush
This and two photos below: Rose-breasted Grosbeak
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Silver-throated Tanager and baby bird begging
Silver-throated Tanager
This and photo below: Tennessee Warbler
This and photo below: Yellow-thighed Finch
Group shot, before leaving the Savegre Hotel
Map: 
As we began our return to San Jose, we made a stop at the Paraiso Quetzal Lodge.
Distant mountain
Kathy
Collared Redstart
Large-footed Finch, with worm. I looked for this bird after hearing scratching in the nearby shrubs
Same as above
Lesser Violetear Hummingbird
Same as above. The bird is sitting on a sign that warns against touching the birds or using flash.
Magnificent Hummingbird
Peruvian Trumpet
Foxglove
This and below: Scintillant Hummingbird
This and photo below: White-throated Mountain-gem Hummingbird
Hummingbirds at feeder
Female Magnificent Hummingbird
Tree with bromeliads. This and movie below, by Kathy Miller
Movie below by Erich Guzman.
This was our last birding stop. We then returned to San Jose, and departed for the United States the next morning. See map:
Map of the complete trip:
As was the case with our prior Road Scholar birding trip to Ecuador, all of our expectations were fulfilled. An element not mentioned above was that we were provided with an informative lecture about the site, at each venue. The most entertaining lecture was provided by Mariano, the owner of the Savegre Hotel. His father and uncle had discovered the valley of the upper Rio Savegre, and had both lived in a cave under a boulder for five years, while they labored to create a farm. Ultimately, the value of the valley for ecotourism was realized, and the subsequent development of the valley for that purpose has, in my opinion, been done responsibly. The valley and region is also known as “Dota” – and Dota is, no doubt, one of the finest destinations in Costa Rica. Despite strains imposed (according to our informants) by the increasing in-migration of citizens of other Central American countries, two of which are higher taxation and a shrinking middle-class, Costa Rica remains a charming and very hospitable country. “Pura vida” is how Ticos (Costa Ricans) refer to their country and sense of themselves and their lives. It was said to us on more than one occasion.
