NOLS & UC-Berkeley – Summer/Fall, 1966

On June 16, 1966, Karen and I got married a second time (having kept the first one a secret from her family), in the Mormon Church, at Jackson, Wyoming. Now I had to find work! A Jackson climber friend, Rick Horn, had gotten me a job as an instructor at the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), and Karen and I left for Lander, WY. She accompanied me on the course, it being our honeymoon. I worked with the founder, Paul Petzold, and another legendary guy, Tap Tapley. We went in from the Wind River Indian Reservation, via St. Lawrence Basin, to the area directly north of Mt. Lander. The fishing was great. I caught 16″ brookies in Lake Polaris! It was a fun course.

Moraine Lake

Moraine Lake

Moraine Lake and Mt. Lander

Moraine Lake and Mt. Lander

Lake Solitude and Petroleum Peak

Lake Solitude and Petroleum Peak

Petroleum Peak

Petroleum Peak

Petroleum Peak, Karen

Petroleum Peak. Karen on the first rocks.

Mt. Bonneville

Mt. Bonneville, view SSE from Petroleum Pk

Mt. Hooker

Mt. Hooker and Mt. Lander, view SSW from Petroleum Pk.

Lander Glacier

Lander Glacier

Digging ice caves, Lander Glacier

Digging snow caves, Lander Glacier

Digging ice caves, Lander Glacier

Digging snow caves, Lander Glacier

Ice cave, Lander Glacier

Snow cave, Lander Glacier

Ice cave, Lander Glacier

Snow cave, Lander Glacier. I don’t recall  the guy smoking the pipe. Was it Tapley, perhaps?

Mt. Hooker, from a viewpoint to the side of Mt. Lander

Mt. Hooker, with Baptiste Lake to the left, from Mt. Lander, looking south

NOLS students and Mt. Hooker

NOLS students and Mt. Hooker, looking southwest

Note all the wool clothing, and the fedora on the student to the left (and in other photos). NOLS outfitted its students with wool clothing purchased at the used clothing store in Lander.

Pk.12548, above Spider Lake

North Cleft and the Giant’s Tooth (pinnacle on the lower East Ridge), above Spider Lake

Pk.12548'and Spider Lake

North Cleft and Spider Lake

NOLS had paid me extra for my mountaineering skills, whereas most of their regular instructors had little or none. Thus, at the conclusion of this course, I was replaced by staff recruited from the Appalachian Mountain Club – hikers, at best. Karen and I then traveled to Marble, CO, to seek work with the Colorado Outward Bound School. They took me on, and I finished the summer with them.

While at COBS, Richard McCracken recruited me for a climb of the Diamond, on Longs Peak. We bivvied at the foot of the D1 route. In the AM, I was leading one of the early pitches, when I popped an aid pin, and struck a flake as I fell. The blow gave me a very painful bruise on my thigh, and I called for a retreat.


At the foot of the Diamond at dawn, 1966


Climber on a route to our left


Climber on a route to our left


Climber on a route to our left


Richard belays me. I fell leading the slanting overhang directly above and to the right of him. A bong-bong that I had placed popped.

COBS in the Elks, bluebells 1966

COBS in the Elks, Bluebells 1966

Back at school: opposition to the Vietnam War was a big concern to much of the UC student body. A protest arose over the siting of a Navy recruiting table next to the entry to the Student Bookstore. Just a couple of years before, the Free Speech Movement had erupted on the campus, over the issue of whether students could openly advocate for political causes on the campus – specifically on Sproul Plaza, in front of the University Administration building. Now, this preferential treatment of Navy recruiting activity incited immediate protest. I was one of a few dozen students who sat down around the Navy table. A strike meeting was called, which was also attended by the FBI, who photographed those giving speeches (including me), before the crowd.


I joined with a few of the former Free Speech Movement activists, including Mario Savio, in helping to organize the strike. But the strike soon fizzled, as picketing efforts were defeated by the steady winter downpours and the approach of final exams.

Grade report, Dec. 66

Grade Report, Dec. 1966

Karen was pregnant and due in May, 1967. The story continues in the next post.

About Evensteven

I am a photographer and author, and live in Embudo, New Mexico, alongside the Rio Grande. I have published a book of photography and accompanying text on running the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon. The first (print) edition is out of print, but a second edition is available as an iBook (eBook) through the iTunes bookstore. All Grand Canyon, river and nature lovers will enjoy my book: The Grand: I have also published six additional iBooks: 1. The Salt River: 2. Coyote Buttes: 3. Four Cornered, the Land: 4. Four Cornered, The Rivers: 5. Rio Marañon: 6. Rio Grande:
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