Peru, PumaRinri Lodge 11/3-5/15

We drove to Tarapoto, and then about a half-hour further east, to the PumaRinri Lodge (#8 on map below), elevation 804′. The lodge sits on a steep hillside above the Huallaga River. Now we were in the real Amazon lowland rainforest aka “the jungle”.

Northern Peru Area Map (click on map to enlarge)

Northern Peru Area Map (click on map to enlarge)

Jungle and river

Jungle and river

Buttressed tree

Buttressed tree

10. Chestnut-eared Aracari Nov032015_7849

Chestnut-eared aracaris, photographed from our veranda

Chestnut-eared Aracari

Chestnut-eared aracaris, photographed from our veranda. Note the red band on the belly.

Lizard, with large insect

Lizard, with large beetle

A lizard has captured a large insect

The lizard has taken the beetle in its mouth

44. Butterfly Nov022015_8003


5. PalmLeaf&RiverNov022015_7970

Palm leaf and river

14. Palm tanager Nov032015_7894

Palm tanager, from our veranda

Palm tanager

Palm tanager, from our veranda

11. MaskedTityra Nov032015_7904

Masked tityra, from our veranda

12., MaskedTityra Nov032015_7906

Masked tityra, from our veranda

This lodge is owned by the same company as Gocta Andes Lodge – Peru Tres Nortes – and is equally nice.

1. Room Nov022015_7908

Our second floor room and veranda

2. RoomView Nov022015_7911

The Huallaga River from our veranda

3. RoomsWithBrittNov022015_7912

CJ and Britt were next door. We could pass the bird guidebook back and forth.

On the grounds, Heliconia


On the grounds, Heliconia


On the grounds, Philodendron


64. BreakfastBuffetNov032015_7888

Breakfast buffet

Breakfast buffet

Breakfast buffet

Britt enjoys his coffee

Britt enjoys his coffee and toast

66. Chef&KitchenNov032015_7889

Chef and kitchen

Gray-breasted Sabrewing hummingbird

Gray-breasted sabrewing hummingbird

Fork-tailed woodnymph

Fork-tailed woodnymph hummingbird


34. NettedFish Nov022015_7963

Like the Casa de Seizo, the lodge had tilapia ponds

35. Tilapia Nov022015_7967


Butterfly at the beach

Butterfly at the beach

Our guide, Rodile, shows palm thatching technique to CJ

Our guide, Rodile, shows palm thatching technique to CJ

Palm thatch

Palm thatch

Just to the side of the lodge grounds was a small creek, where Rodile was able to grab and show us a variety of poison-dart frogs. They were not so poisonous that they could not be handled.

53. Poison-dartFrog Nov022015_7982

54. PoisonDartFrogNov022015_7985

55. PoisonDartFrogUndersideOf#85 Nov022015_7986

56. PoisonDartFrogNov022015_7987

57. PoisonDartFrogUndersideOf#87Nov022015_7988


59. PoisonDartFrogUndersideOf#95Nov022015_7996

60. PoisonDartFrog Nov022015_7997

62. ThornyTree Nov022015_8002

Cashapona tree aka Walking palm

Cashapona Nov022015_8001

Cashapona tree aka Walking palm

42. Black-frontedNunbirdNov012015_8109

Black-fronted nunbird

Rodile also directed our attention to a series of signs that had been positioned along the trail, that dealt with the history of cocaine trafficking in the region.

48. CocaSign Nov022015_7978

“Coca, from the Amazon to the  Andes. Coca has been traditionally grown in the Amazon, but consumed in the Andes”

49. CocaSign Nov022015_7979

“From sacred to condemned”

50. CocaSign Nov022015_7980

“Cocaine and Narcotrafficking. Cocaine production increased in the 70s. Peru was the top producer in the 80s, then Colombia took over.”

51. CocaSign Nov022015_7984

“The State of San Martin (where the lodge is located) was a top producer, as coca production was more profitable than other crops. The ‘narcoeconomy’ brought violence and other problems with it.”

The production of illegal coca dropped from 28,600 hectares, in 1992, to 378 in 2009, an historic decrease.

“The production of illegal coca dropped from 28,600 hectares, in 1992, to 378 in 2009, an historic decrease.”

We took a boat trip up the Huallaga and Mayo rivers.

17. Paddle Nov012015_8095

Hand-carved paddle

18. EsteroRapidRodileNov012015_8063

The Estero Rapid

20. Red-cappedCardinal Nov012015_8076

Red-capped cardinal

22. Hoatzin Nov012015_8087


23. SocialFlycatcher Nov012015_8080

Social flycatcher

24. ShapajaBeach Nov012015_8102

Shapaja beach

25. Shapaja Nov012015_8103

Shapaja beach and boats

26. Fruit Nov012015_8100


27. RuddyGroundDove Nov012015_8099

Ruddy ground dove

Yellow-headed caracara

Yellow-headed caracara

Yellow-headed caracara

This Yellow-headed caracara (upper right) doesn’t seem to mind the plastic trash in the tree, but I did. It’s everywhere along the rivers.

39. Pool Nov012015_8041

Jungle pool

40. MorphoButterfly Nov022015_8007

Morpho butterfly remains

We flew from Tarapoto to Lima on Nov. 5, as the sun set beyond the Andes. Here is the link to the following post:

About Evensteven

I am a photographer and author, and live in Embudo, New Mexico, alongside the Rio Grande. I have published a book of photography and accompanying text on running the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon. The first (print) edition is out of print, but a second edition is available as an iBook (eBook) through the iTunes bookstore. All Grand Canyon, river and nature lovers will enjoy my book: The Grand: I have also published six additional iBooks: 1. The Salt River: 2. Coyote Buttes: 3. Four Cornered, the Land: 4. Four Cornered, The Rivers: 5. Rio Marañon: 6. Rio Grande:
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