Peru – Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca, Part 3


We left Huaraz with our trekking guide, Felipe Chauca Torre, and drove downstream along the Rio Santa to the town of Yungay, where we turned east and began our ascent into the mountains.

Roadside view of Huascaran, to the north

Roadside view of Huascaran, to the north

Statue

Roadside statue detail, and Huascaran sur (south)

Roadside telephoto view of Huascaran Sur (22,205')

Roadside telephoto view of Huascaran sur (22,205′)

After a considerable climb, we entered the park.

Entering the Parque Nacional Huascaran, where we paid the park fees. The trees there were alive with birds, but we didn't take the time to ID any.

Entering the Parque Nacional Huascaran. The trees here were alive with birds, but we didn’t take the time to get a close look at any.

Granite walls form a portal into the valley of the Llanganuco Lakes. These walls form the pedestals for, to the north, Huandoy, and to the south, Huascaran norte

High granite walls form a portal into the valley of the Llanganuco Lakes. These walls serve as pedestals for, to the north, Huandoy, and to the south, Huascaran norte

The first Llanganuco Lake, colored turquoise by glacial milk

The first Llanganuco Lake, colored turquoise by glacial run-off

Lake detail

Lake detail

Lupines, at lakeside

Lupines, at lakeside

Looking back over the lake towards the portal and valley beyond

Looking back over the lake towards the portal and valley beyond

View of the upper Llanganuco Lake, as we climb towards the parking area at Cebollapampa

View of the upper Llanganuco Lake, as we climb towards the parking area at Cebollapampa

Setting out.

We crossed a creek, as we descended a short ways to the staging area, at Cebollapampa.

From the parking area, we crossed this creek as we descended a short ways to the staging area at Cebollapampa.

Creek

Creek

Our horse and burro packer readies the loads. The turquoise bags seen here were used to carry boating gear to Peru, and are true antiques, being the original Bill's Bags manufactured by Northwest River Supplies, from Moscow, Idaho

Our horse and burro packer readies the loads. The turquoise bags seen here were used to carry boating gear to Peru, and are true antiques, being the original Bill’s Bags manufactured by Northwest River Supplies, of Moscow, Idaho.

CJ gets acquainted with the burros. Our guide, Felipe, is seen behind

CJ gets acquainted with the burros. Our guide, Felipe, is seen behind, in the yellow jacket, talking with our cook, Juan

We're going to Laguna 69

We’re going to Laguna 69

The start of our hike followed the stream up the initially flat valley of Cebollapampa

Cebollapampa bird (currently unidentified)

Variant of White-winged cinclodes or Red-rumped bush-tyrant??

 

This flowering cactus looks somewhat like our southwestern claret cup

This flowering cactus looks a lot like our southwestern claret cup

Stream

Stream

Stream

Stream

Chacraraju view

View of the East Summit of Chacraraju (19, 688′)

Puna teal

Crested duck

Polylepis tree

Polylepis tree

Polylepis tree bark detail

Polylepis tree bark detail

An air plant or bromeliad

An air plant or bromeliad

An air plant or bromeliad detail

Air plant or bromeliad detail

View of Chacraraju (20,039'). Laguna 69 lies at the foot of this peak.

View of Chacraraju. Laguna 69 lies at the foot of this peak, and the trail to base camp goes over the intervening ridge at the low point.

The pack train

The pack train

The trail began to climb.

The trail approaches a glacier on Yanapaccha

Approaching a glacier on the lower slopes of Yanapaccha (17,913′)

The trail took us close under a glacier on Yanapaccha

Close under a glacier on Yanapaccha

29. ChacrarajuSep262015_9755

Chacraraju, the western end

Waterfall on stream from Laguna 69

Waterfall on the stream from Laguna 69

Waterfall on stream from Yanapaccha

Waterfall on stream from Yanapaccha, as we approach a series of switch-backs

Waterfall on stream from Yanapaccha

Waterfall on stream from Yanapaccha detail

Chacraraju, from small lake at the entrance to the base camp area

Chacraraju western end, straight ahead, with Pisco in the clouds to the left, and a small lake at the entrance to the base camp area

Base camp meadow

The base camp meadow is seen at the foot of the cliff

Yanapaccha sign

Yanapaccha sign

Our base camp site, with the cook tent already up

Our base camp site, with the cook tent already up

We set up our individual tents and took a good look around.

Our camp

Base camp

The base camp wall

The base camp wall

Flower

Flowering plant

Flowers and tussock of grass

Flowers and grass tussock

Flower

Flower stalk

Lupine and view to the east.

Lupine and view to the east, with Yanapaccha to the right.

Flowers

Flowers

Vizcacha, in the rocks just to the side of our camp

Vizcacha, in the rocks just to the side of our camp

Vizcacha

Vizcacha

Vizcacha

Vizcacha

I watched birds in and around the base camp.

Bird(Unknown)_SCN2528

Ash-breasted shrike tyrant

Bird(Unknown)_SCN2531

Ash-breasted shrike tyrant

Blue-blackTanager_SCN2492

Tit-like Dacnis

Blue-blackTanager_SCN2499

Tit-like Dacnis

Tit-like dacnis female

Tit-like Dacnis female

The glacial surroundings and glimpses of the peaks through the clouds were fascinating.

Chacraraju glacier, east end

Chacraraju glacier, east end

Chacraraju, east end glacial rubble

Chacraraju, east end glacial rubble

Chacraraju glacier, east end avalanche

Chacraraju glacier, east end avalanche

 Chacraraju, East Ridge

Chacraraju, East Ridge

 Chacraraju, East Summit

Chacraraju, East Summit (19,688′)

Chacraraju, hanging glacier and ice fall below East Summit

Chacraraju, hanging glacier and ice fall below East Summit

Chacraraju hanging glacier and icefall

Chacraraju, hanging glacier and icefall

Chacraraju, west end

Chacraraju, west end

Chacraraju, West Summit

Chacraraju, West Summit (20,039′) left and East Summit (19,688′) right

Chacraraju-Pisco Col

Pisco-Chacraraju col

Looking southwest gave us some views of Yanapaccha.

Yanapaccha

Yanapaccha subsidiary summit and moon

Yanapaccha glacier

Yanapaccha glacier

Yanapaccha glacier detail

Yanapaccha glacier and icefall detail

Yanapaccha glacier remnant

Yanapaccha glacier remnant

The most awesome mountain views were of Huascaran and Chopicalqui, to the west.

Huascaran Norte (right) and Sur (left)

Left: Huascaran sur  (22,205′). Right: Huascaran norte (21,833′).

The icefall from the col that separates the two peaks

The icefall from the col (known as Garganta) that separates the two peaks.

Huascaran Norte

Huascaran norte

Huascaran Norte

Huascaran norte

Huascaran Norte glacier

Huascaran norte glacier

Huascaran norte

Huascaran norte

 Summit of Huascaran Sur detail

Summit of Huascaran sur detail

 Summit of Huascaran Sur

Summit of Huascaran sur

Chopicalqui summit detail (20,846')

Summit of Chopicalqui detail (20,846′)

Chopicalqui summit

Summit of Chopicalqui

Kathy, Britt and CJ hiked up to the lake, and Kathy took the following photos. I started out with them, but hit a wall within a couple of hundred yards. So I hung out and photographed birds.

Kathy

Kathy, at Laguna 69 (15, 090′)

Chacraraju glacier

Glacier on the south side of Chacraraju, and Laguna 69

Chacraraju and glacier

Chacraraju and glacier

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Laguna 69. Left: Pisco (18,871). Right: Chacraraju.

Thanks to Britt Runyon for the following bird photos taken during our Laguna 69 hike.

Andean Goose

Andean Goose

Taczanowski's Ground-Tyrant (?)

Taczanowski’s Ground-Tyrant (?)

Rufous-collared Sparrow

Rufous-collared Sparrow

Blue-mantled Thornbill

Blue-mantled Thornbill hummingbird

Mountain Caracara

Mountain Caracara

We returned to Huaraz and readied for the trip to the river. We left town on Sept. 28. The following posts will be devoted to running the Rio Marañon, starting with:

https://believesteve.org/2015/11/23/peru-the-rio-maranon-part-1/

About believesteve

I am a photographer and have published a book of photography and accompanying text on running the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon. The first (print) edition is out of print, but a second edition is available as an iBook (eBook) through the iTunes bookstore. All Grand Canyon, river and nature lovers will enjoy my book: https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/the-grand/id672492447?ls=1
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One Response to Peru – Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca, Part 3

  1. Wow, what an incredible place to see. I wonder what those glaciers looked like 30 years ago?
    Enjoying these posts a lot!

    Like

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