We? Who Are We?

              “We? Who Are We?”

Looked at in the fullness of time

we humans are a problem only for ourselves

evolution will replenish the planet

once we are removed


We will be removed

and, of course, it has already begun

We have packed the planet

while ruining the earth, the air and the water


We humans are rendering

our habitat uninhabitable

and it’s seems unlikely that we will stop

before it is too late


But while we can still talk to each other

it might be amusing to assign blame

Who is to blame for this mess we find ourselves in?

Is it the most avaricious and power mad amongst us

who are responsible?

That is most certainly the case …

and it would be great if we could rein them in

but that too seems unlikely

We missed the boat on that one

when we invented civilization

and moved to the city


Humans are what they are

both pro- and antisocial

and there is no changing that


There is little hope for us nice people

now that the nastiest of people

have taken charge

But … if it is any consolation at all

we will surely go down together

H. sapiens, it will be said, was a poorly-designed species

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Steve Miller Publishes “Four Cornered – The Rivers”

Steve Miller publishes “Four Cornered – The Rivers”.

Announcing the publication of: “Four Cornered, The Rivers”. This is the second book in the Four Cornered series. The first book is: “Four Cornered, The Land”. Together, these books present unparalleled photographic coverage of the American Southwest, with photographs that will both inform and delight, along with explanatory text, videos and maps. The series is the culmination of 50 years of adventure photography, and includes pioneering rock climbs (beginning in 1964), canyoneering, rafting (16 raft trips through the Grand Canyon), kayaking, Indian ruins, petroglyphs, pictographs and more. These books were made to be viewed on Mac devices, and are ridiculously cheap – $4.99 and $5.99.
Here are the links:

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The River Has No Right to Water

The river has no right to water. I’m talking about the Rio Grande. It rises in Colorado and flows through the heavily-irrigated San Luis Valley, before turning south into New Mexico. The Rio Grande Gorge begins a short distance upstream of the Colorado/New Mexico state line. From the state line south, the Rio Grande Gorge is the centerpiece of the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument.

The Rio Grande Compact governs the distribution of its waters between the two above-named states, and Texas and Mexico. That agreement gives the lion’s share of water to the farmers of the San Luis Valley. Deliveries of water are accounted for by the year – how much you get and/or must pass downstream in a calendar year. Since the irrigators have no need of water during the winter, they let the river flow un-diverted through the Valley in the winter months. And what water passes downstream during the pre-irrigation months of the year is credited as a delivery to the downstream entities for that calendar year. With this credit in their back pocket, the irrigators can then divert to their heart’s content come summer.

What happens at the end of the irrigation season? The snowmelt is long past, and the river is low as it enters the San Luis Valley. And lower yet when it exits the Valley. Diversions at that time of year may leave precious little water in the river downstream of the diversion points. Here is the river in early September of 2011, at the Manassa Bridge, upstream of the Rio Grande Gorge, in Colorado.


Upstream view


Downstream view

What you are seeing here is a tepid little creek, not the “Rio Grande” – although it is the Rio Grande. The flow is somewhere around 25 cubic feet/second (cfs). We waded across and it never got more than knee deep. Leaving so little water in the river at that time of year is standard operating procedure, since required deliveries for the year were made during the preceding winter months of the new year. And, BTW, this is what the river probably looks like right now, at the beginning of July.

So … what about this year, with its probable record low runoff? According to the Denver Post of June 25:  “The main stem of the Rio Grande probably won’t make it out of Colorado to New Mexico this summer, state water authorities calculate, let alone Texas and Mexico.”  They are telling us, in other words, that they are going to let the river dry up where it exits the Valley. Will they, at the same time, be diverting upstream in the Valley? Most certainly. They will be diverting all that remains of the river, every last drop of it. And, they are entitled to do so. They have met their Compact obligations with the deliveries made earlier in the calendar year.

I’m not mad at the farmers up in Colorado. They’re just trying to make a living. What I am mad about is the fact that the river has no right to water. Nowhere in the Rio Grande Compact is it stated that the river will not be allowed to dry up. There is no guarantee of a minimum flow to sustain the fishes, frogs, turtles, herons and riparian ecosystem. To repeat, the river has no right to water.

Fortunately for northern New Mexico, springs in the Rio Grande Gorge will, to some degree or other, replenish the river. Or, at least until they run dry. But that will not help those farther downstream. Not for the first time, the river has run dry in the vicinity of Socorro, upstream of Elephant Butte Reservoir. We are now in uncharted territory, and we’ll all probably be a lot sadder and wiser by the time this summer is over.




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Natural Happenings

The catalpa blooms are now withered, but what a show that tree provided, just days ago. It’s like lots of little orchids.






Our “home water”, looking upstream to the pool below the island. Yesterday evening I stepped into the river, took this photo and then waded upstream to the island.


One of two fat rainbows caught in the island pool. I can’t tell whether this is a “wild” rainbow, or a hold-over stocker. It could be the latter, as the Bosque stretch doesn’t get a lot of fishing pressure.

The cholla cactus is now blooming.


Cholla cactus, in the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument




Rio reflection


Taos Junction Bridge is seen upstream

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Anting the Hatch, 6-5-18

I did not invent this phrase. One minute on Google sufficed to identify the author as Ken Miyata, who wrote an article thus titled in Fly Fisherman Magazine, Volume 13, No. 6, in 1982.

When I returned from the river yesterday evening, and asked my wife Kathy whether we had used this technique before, she said we had, on the Green River below Flaming Gorge Dam. I couldn’t remember, but the reason for the conversation was that I had, that evening, successfully “anted the hatch”.

Here’s how it happened. Two evenings ago I had arrived at a particular pool, to observe fish rising vigorously. It’s been mostly about caddis lately, but I could not interest any rising fish, there or elsewhere, with either a caddis pattern or a yellow drake that’s been around some evenings. I went fishless.


Yesterday evening I returned to that same pool, and fish were again rising. I got a hefty triploid (stocker) rainbow on a good sized EH caddis, to start. And then nothing. I left the pool, and when I returned, fish were rising in the tail-out and I positioned myself so as to be able to cast straight upstream. Then I took out my midge box to look for inspiration. And … in the box were some small ants I hadn’t remembered putting there. I selected a parachute ant, size 20, put it on a 6X tippet, and BINGO! In the photo, you can see the white post of the fly in the net, above the fish’s eye. It’s a long-jawed male of about 15″. I caught nothing further, but this fish pleased me so much that I left with a BIG smile on my face. Rio Grande, near Taos, NM.

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Steve Miller Publishes “Four Cornered”

Steve Miller has added a fourth book to his titles published as iBooks, which can be purchased from the iTunes Store (see link), for only $4.99.

This book presents the incredible scenery of the Four Corners region of the southwestern United States, in 596 inspiring photos, spread over 354 pages and including over 20 maps and a glossary. Four Chapters are devoted to the scenic Colorado Plateau regions of the four states that meet at the Four Corners – New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado and Utah. This is the 4th iBook authored and published by Steve Miller on the outstanding scenic areas of the western United States, and is the work of 50 years of exploring every nook and cranny of the Southwest with his camera. A companion book: “Book Two – The Rivers” is in preparation. Look for Steve Miller’s other iBooks: The Grand, The Salt River and Coyote Buttes and The Wave.


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Rio Grande – Google Earth Maps & More #1

This is the first of four posts that contain Google Earth maps of four stretches of the Rio Grande in northern New Mexico. From upstream to downstream, they are the Taos Box, Orilla Verde Recreation Area, the Racecourse and the Bosque. I have place-marked (yellow pins) these maps to show rapids/points of interest/points of access, and have also provided a number of illustrative photos.

This post concerns the Taos Box. The Taos Box section is included in the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument.

NOTE: the scale varies from map to map. The scale on each map is shown in the lower right corner. RL = river left. RR = river right.

Taos Box - Segment#1

The access to John Dunn Bridge is via Arroyo Hondo, north of Taos.


Taos Box put-in, with the mouth of Arroyo Hondo Canyon and John Dunn Bridge seen downstream

Not far downstream of the put-in, Black Rock Spring is seen on river-right, but it is inundated at high water. Cool fresh water springs will be seen along the river-left bank as you continue downstream.


Petroglyphs, on river-left


Petroglyph, on river-left


Manby Hot Spring lower pool, with a wagon axle seen in the foreground, upstream view. Another pool is contained within the walls seen beyond.

Manby Hot Spring is on river-left and the lower pool is inundated at high water. Just downstream, on the right,  you’ll see the sawed-off timbers of the Manby Bridge set into a rock abutment. The bridge was washed out in 1921. Ouzel Rapid runs along a cliff, to its right side. The rapid was named for an ouzel nest that has been located on that cliff, just a few feet above the normal water level. Ouzel Beach is found at the foot of the rapid, on the left. Some interesting lava flow patterns are seen in the cliff just across from the beach.


Ouzel Beach, upstream view


Ski Jump Rapid, 1976, with the Forensic Treatment System, State of NM


Ski Jump Rapid at very high water, during our 1983 Guide Training Program


Ski Jump Rapid, and the Ski Jump Rock, which is seen to the side of the raft, partially-covered by water. When the rock is completely covered, it creates a wave that was thought, by those who named the rapid, to resemble a ski jump.


At the Ski Jump lunch beach, with the High Bridge seen downstream

Ski Jump Beach is the only roomy camping spot on the river, with a top rope climbing area found a short distance up the side canyon.


Rappelling at the climbing area at Ski Jump Beach, 1976

I developed this climbing area for the Outward Bound-type Wilderness Program of the Forensic Treatment System (State of New Mexico), that I created and directed in 1976 and 1977. We would use it as part of a 3-day rafting trip that would start with a hike to the Middle Box put-in.

The High Bridge is 650′ above the river. 3 Forks Rapid is located at the mouth of the canyon of the same name, which enters on river-left. Yellow Bank Rapid was named for the numerous small yellow rafts used by the Los Alamos Explorer Post 20, when they stopped there and scouted along the river-right bank. They were active in the 1960s and 70s, under the direction of Stretch Fretwell, a pioneer of whitewater sport in New Mexico.

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Yellow Bank Rapid, medium flow. Photo by Britt Runyon.


Yellow Bank Rapid. Sitting atop Gaby’s Rock (aka Tombstone), which was named for a guide by the name of Gabrielle, who was the first to flip on this rock. Photo by Britt Runyon


Flipping at Gaby’s Rock. The current pushes you hard up against this rock. Photo by Britt Runyon.

The Playground section starts at Yellow Bank and concludes at Dead Car Rapid.

Taos Box - Segment#2

The Playground is named for its many easier rapids, that serve as “play spots” for kayakers. The wrecked motorcycle seen on river-left was pushed off the rim, at the head of the Painted Rock Trail. The Wall Rapid is located at the foot of what appears to be a fault gully that cuts down from the western rim the length of the right slope, to the side of a large cliff. The rapid is named for the high-water big wave located left of center. Below the rapid, note, in the large cliff to the right, the reddish lenses of “channel fills”. These “fills” consist of sediment that was deposited in a river channel that ran over the surface of a solidified lava flow, and which was subsequently capped by a later-arriving lava flow. This latter flow of molten lava baked the sediment, giving it its reddish color.  Next up is Boxcar Rapid, which is named for a big rock that fell into the river-right side of the rapid not long ago (see rock in the below photo). Prior to that it was called 60 MPH Rapid, for a road sign stating such, that was erected along the river-left side of the rapid.

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Boxcar Rapid (aka 60 MPH Rapid), downstream view. Bridge timbers and steel rods will be seen not far ahead on the left. Britt Runyon photo.

After you pass Boxcar Rapid, look back upstream over your left shoulder to spot another seeming fault gully, that cuts, in this case, through the eastern rim, in a downstream direction (see photo below).

The fault gully mentioned above, upstream view. The red X marks a channel fill, as described above.

It is here, as discussed by Paul Bauer in his indispensable guidebook: “The Rio Grande, A River Guide and Landscapes of Northern New Mexico”, that the canyon widens considerably. He attributes the widening to “landslides”, but makes no mention of faulting and earthquakes as contributing factors. To my (admittedly amateur) eye, the fault (and the earthquakes that were presumably associated with it) that produced that gully could well be responsible for the landslides that begin right here and continue downstream, especially since the orientation of the gully suggests that the fault runs in a downstream direction. Characteristic of the landslide debris are “toreva blocks”, which are large and intact portions of the former rim, which rotated as they slid down in such a manner that their once vertical faces are now angled back. A complete toreva ridge will be seen ahead on the left. Toreva blocks on the right-hand slope are mirror-images of those seen on the left-hand slope. In this lower part of the canyon (and down into the Orilla Verde section), the landslides have descended in so uniform a manner as to create a stair-step effect, such that there is a mid-level bench located between the top of the landslide blocks and the bottom of the upper cliff band. These benches are easily made-out on the maps of segments 2, 3 and 4.


A large tilted toreva block is seen in the foreground, with Boat Reamer Rapid hidden from view behind it. Photo by Kathy Miller

Also in this area, you’ll see, on river-left, large timbers and steel rods that are some of the remains of the washed-out Manby Bridge. Bonifacio Rapid is named for that name, as engraved on a rock on river-right. Dead Dog Bend commemorates a dog that we observed, over a period of days, on the left shore, blinded by a head full of porcupine quills. With the agreement of a veterinarian who just happened to be a guest on our trip, I shot the dog. Scott’s Rock is named for Scott Vollstedt, who flipped in the high-water hole created by that rock. This large rock sits left of center, and opposite the grove of netleaf hackberry trees that is found for a distance along the river-right shore. The Dead Car surfing hole is found directly downhill of the “Dead Car”, which was pushed off the western rim.


The “Dead Car”, known to some as “Fred’s Safari”. Apache Plume bloom in the foreground.

Taos Box - Segment#3

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Dead Car Rapid


Powerline Falls, 1976. The Wilderness Program (mentioned above) used these inexpensive and light-weight Udisco rafts for our 3-day trips through the Middle and Taos Box runs.


Powerline Falls

A short ways downstream of Powerline Rapid, on a curve to the left, look on the right-hand slope for pieces of a wrecked jet. The main piece of the wreckage will be found a few hundred feet up the slope, deposited on a bouldery bench. There are also pieces of metal and molten aluminum found in the rocks right by the eddy that we usually use.


Rocky #1, at the start of the section that leads to Rockgarden Rapid


Dead Texan Rapid in very high water. We always ran right of the breaking waves at this level. Dead Texan immediately precedes Rockgarden Rapid. The yellowish cliff seen in the center of the photo marks the end of Rockgarden Rapid.


The entry to Rockgarden, with Fishhook Rock on the right and Camel Rock in the center.


Rockgarden, with Sieve Rock on the left, and Camel and Fishhook rocks


Rockgarden, while passing to the right of Camel Rock. Sharkfin Rock is seen on the right and Broach Rock on the left.


Rockgarden, view back upstream as the following boat is about to pass between Sharkfin and Broach rocks


The exit of Rockgarden, view back upstream, with the Ledge Rock


Buzzsaw Rock is located a short distance downstream from Rockgarden


Ugly Rock is positioned dead-center in a narrow section of the gorge


Ugly Rock

Ugly Rock is named for its top spike (seen here), which has certainly damaged a raft or two at levels where you can catch on it. The rock also transforms at yet higher water levels into a menacing pour-over/hole.

Taos Box - Segment#4


Kathy’s Cleaver

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Kathy’s Cleaver, in higher water

Kathy’s Cleaver is named for Kathy Miller, who, in higher water, attempted to pass to the right side of the rock, and flipped when her raft was shoved by the current up against it.


Boat Reamer Rapid, with Old Fogey Rock just visible, and ready to ream a boat that gets carried into it.


Boat Reamer Rapid and Old Fogey Rock, at extreme low water


The sculpted Old Fogey Rock at low water


Punk Rock, downstream view. This rock creates a giant hole at high water.


The Gut, downstream view. The Gut becomes a very big wave at high water.


Punk Rock and The Gut, with the toreva block that was shown earlier seen in the upper-right corner. Photo by Kathy Miller


Punk Rock, The Gut and Screaming Right Rapid. Photo by Kathy Miller

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The Gut

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Screaming Left Rapid


Screaming Left Rapid, view upstream and to the right


Screaming Left Rapid, view upstream

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In the Boulder Field section, Mitch’s Bitch Rock throws up a roostertail

Mitch’s Bitch Rock is named for Mitch Smith, who once guided for New Wave Rafting Co. He later died by his own hand.


Boulder Field section


Miller Time Rock and rapid. Thank God Eddy is seen straight ahead.

This rapid was named for both Steve Miller and his son Ethan, after they flipped on successive days in the huge waves that form here in very high water. Thank God Eddy was named such because it was the first place where one could bail out the bucket boats that we used in those days. Screaming Right Rapid lays just around the bend from there.


Screaming Right Rapid, approaching the central rock

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Screaming Right Rapid, passing the central rock at higher water

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Screaming Right Rapid, after passing the central rock


Screaming Right Rapid at low water, view upstream. The central rock is seen left of center.


Screaming Right Rapid, view upstream. The central rock is seen behind the boat.

Taos Box - Segment#5

Not far downstream of Screaming Right is a great surf hole, located right of center. Look for it!


Polished and sculpted basalt boulder, river-left


Murphy’s Rock, named for Doug Murphy, the first guidebook writer: “New Mexico River Notes”


Taos Junction Rapid and Taos Junction Bridge


Taos Junction Rapid


Taos Junction Rapid, with Taos Creek entering on the left


The striated rock at the top of  Taos Junction Rapid

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Taos Junction Rapid at high water, with Taos Creek entering on the left, and the Big Wave


Kathy, at the Big Wave. Photo by Terry Conroy


Kathy’s son, Brahm, at the Big Wave. Photo by Terry Conroy

The take-out is on river-left, just past the bridge. In hot weather, watch out for kids jumping off the bridge!



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