Steve Miller Publishes “Four Cornered”

Steve Miller has added a fourth book to his titles published as iBooks, which can be purchased from the iTunes Store (see link), for only $4.99.

This book presents the incredible scenery of the Four Corners region of the southwestern United States, in 596 inspiring photos, spread over 354 pages and including over 20 maps and a glossary. Four Chapters are devoted to the scenic Colorado Plateau regions of the four states that meet at the Four Corners – New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado and Utah. This is the 4th iBook authored and published by Steve Miller on the outstanding scenic areas of the western United States, and is the work of 50 years of exploring every nook and cranny of the Southwest with his camera. A companion book: “Book Two – The Rivers” is in preparation. Look for Steve Miller’s other iBooks: The Grand, The Salt River and Coyote Buttes and The Wave.

https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/four-cornered/id1384038899?mt=11

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Rio Grande – Google Earth Maps & More #1

This is the first of four posts that contain Google Earth maps of four stretches of the Rio Grande in northern New Mexico. From upstream to downstream, they are the Taos Box, Orilla Verde Recreation Area, the Racecourse and the Bosque. I have place-marked (yellow pins) these maps to show rapids/points of interest/points of access, and have also provided a number of illustrative photos.

This post concerns the Taos Box. The Taos Box section is included in the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument.

NOTE: the scale varies from map to map. The scale on each map is shown in the lower right corner. RL = river left. RR = river right.

Taos Box - Segment#1

The access to John Dunn Bridge is via Arroyo Hondo, north of Taos.

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Taos Box put-in, with the mouth of Arroyo Hondo Canyon and John Dunn Bridge seen downstream

Not far downstream of the put-in, Black Rock Spring is seen on river-right, but it is inundated at high water. Cool fresh water springs will be seen along the river-left bank as you continue downstream.

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Petroglyphs, on river-left

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Petroglyph, on river-left

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Manby Hot Spring lower pool, with a wagon axle seen in the foreground, upstream view. Another pool is contained within the walls seen beyond.

Manby Hot Spring is on river-left and the lower pool is inundated at high water. Just downstream, on the right,  you’ll see the sawed-off timbers of the Manby Bridge set into a rock abutment. The bridge was washed out in 1921. Ouzel Rapid runs along a cliff, to its right side. The rapid was named for an ouzel nest that has been located on that cliff, just a few feet above the normal water level. Ouzel Beach is found at the foot of the rapid, on the left. Some interesting lava flow patterns are seen in the cliff just across from the beach.

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Ouzel Beach, upstream view

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Ski Jump Rapid, 1976, with the Forensic Treatment System, State of NM

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Ski Jump Rapid at very high water, during our 1983 Guide Training Program

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Ski Jump Rapid, and the Ski Jump Rock, which is seen to the side of the raft, partially-covered by water. When the rock is completely covered, it creates a wave that was thought, by those who named the rapid, to resemble a ski jump.

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At the Ski Jump lunch beach, with the High Bridge seen downstream

Ski Jump Beach is the only roomy camping spot on the river, with a top rope climbing area found a short distance up the side canyon.

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Rappelling at the climbing area at Ski Jump Beach, 1976

I developed this climbing area for the Outward Bound-type Wilderness Program of the Forensic Treatment System (State of New Mexico), that I created and directed in 1976 and 1977. We would use it as part of a 3-day rafting trip that would start with a hike to the Middle Box put-in.

The High Bridge is 650′ above the river. 3 Forks Rapid is located at the mouth of the canyon of the same name, which enters on river-left. Yellow Bank Rapid was named for the numerous small yellow rafts used by the Los Alamos Explorer Post 20, when they stopped there and scouted along the river-right bank. They were active in the 1960s and 70s, under the direction of Stretch Fretwell, a pioneer of whitewater sport in New Mexico.

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Yellow Bank Rapid, medium flow. Photo by Britt Runyon.

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Yellow Bank Rapid. Sitting atop Gaby’s Rock (aka Tombstone), which was named for a guide by the name of Gabrielle, who was the first to flip on this rock. Photo by Britt Runyon

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Flipping at Gaby’s Rock. The current pushes you hard up against this rock. Photo by Britt Runyon.

The Playground section starts at Yellow Bank and concludes at Dead Car Rapid.

Taos Box - Segment#2

The Playground is named for its many easier rapids, that serve as “play spots” for kayakers. The wrecked motorcycle seen on river-left was pushed off the rim, at the head of the Painted Rock Trail. The Wall Rapid is located at the foot of what appears to be a fault gully that cuts down from the western rim the length of the right slope, to the side of a large cliff. The rapid is named for the high-water big wave located left of center. Below the rapid, note, in the large cliff to the right, the reddish lenses of “channel fills”. These “fills” consist of sediment that was deposited in a river channel that ran over the surface of a solidified lava flow, and which was subsequently capped by a later-arriving lava flow. This latter flow of molten lava baked the sediment, giving it its reddish color.  Next up is Boxcar Rapid, which is named for a big rock that fell into the river-right side of the rapid not long ago (see rock in the below photo). Prior to that it was called 60 MPH Rapid, for a road sign stating such, that was erected along the river-left side of the rapid.

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Boxcar Rapid (aka 60 MPH Rapid), downstream view. Bridge timbers and steel rods will be seen not far ahead on the left. Britt Runyon photo.

After you pass Boxcar Rapid, look back upstream over your left shoulder to spot another seeming fault gully, that cuts, in this case, through the eastern rim, in a downstream direction (see photo below).

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The fault gully mentioned above, upstream view. The red X marks a channel fill, as described above.

It is here, as discussed by Paul Bauer in his indispensable guidebook: “The Rio Grande, A River Guide and Landscapes of Northern New Mexico”, that the canyon widens considerably. He attributes the widening to “landslides”, but makes no mention of faulting and earthquakes as contributing factors. To my (admittedly amateur) eye, the fault (and the earthquakes that were presumably associated with it) that produced that gully could well be responsible for the landslides that begin right here and continue downstream, especially since the orientation of the gully suggests that the fault runs in a downstream direction. Characteristic of the landslide debris are “toreva blocks”, which are large and intact portions of the former rim, which rotated as they slid down in such a manner that their once vertical faces are now angled back. A complete toreva ridge will be seen ahead on the left. Toreva blocks on the right-hand slope are mirror-images of those seen on the left-hand slope. In this lower part of the canyon (and down into the Orilla Verde section), the landslides have descended in so uniform a manner as to create a stair-step effect, such that there is a mid-level bench located between the top of the landslide blocks and the bottom of the upper cliff band. These benches are easily made-out on the maps of segments 2, 3 and 4.

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A large tilted toreva block is seen in the foreground, with Boat Reamer Rapid hidden from view behind it. Photo by Kathy Miller

Also in this area, you’ll see, on river-left, large timbers and steel rods that are some of the remains of the washed-out Manby Bridge. Bonifacio Rapid is named for that name, as engraved on a rock on river-right. Dead Dog Bend commemorates a dog that we observed, over a period of days, on the left shore, blinded by a head full of porcupine quills. With the agreement of a veterinarian who just happened to be a guest on our trip, I shot the dog. Scott’s Rock is named for Scott Vollstedt, who flipped in the high-water hole created by that rock. This large rock sits left of center, and opposite the grove of netleaf hackberry trees that is found for a distance along the river-right shore. The Dead Car surfing hole is found directly downhill of the “Dead Car”, which was pushed off the western rim.

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The “Dead Car”, known to some as “Fred’s Safari”. Apache Plume bloom in the foreground.

Taos Box - Segment#3

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Dead Car Rapid

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Powerline Falls, 1976. The Wilderness Program (mentioned above) used these inexpensive and light-weight Udisco rafts for our 3-day trips through the Middle and Taos Box runs.

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Powerline Falls

A short ways downstream of Powerline Rapid, on a curve to the left, look on the right-hand slope for pieces of a wrecked jet. The main piece of the wreckage will be found a few hundred feet up the slope, deposited on a bouldery bench. There are also pieces of metal and molten aluminum found in the rocks right by the eddy that we usually use.

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Rocky #1, at the start of the section that leads to Rockgarden Rapid

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Dead Texan Rapid in very high water. We always ran right of the breaking waves at this level. Dead Texan immediately precedes Rockgarden Rapid. The yellowish cliff seen in the center of the photo marks the end of Rockgarden Rapid.

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The entry to Rockgarden, with Fishhook Rock on the right and Camel Rock in the center.

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Rockgarden, with Sieve Rock on the left, and Camel and Fishhook rocks

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Rockgarden, while passing to the right of Camel Rock. Sharkfin Rock is seen on the right and Broach Rock on the left.

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Rockgarden, view back upstream as the following boat is about to pass between Sharkfin and Broach rocks

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The exit of Rockgarden, view back upstream, with the Ledge Rock

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Buzzsaw Rock is located a short distance downstream from Rockgarden

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Ugly Rock is positioned dead-center in a narrow section of the gorge

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Ugly Rock

Ugly Rock is named for its top spike (seen here), which has certainly damaged a raft or two at levels where you can catch on it. The rock also transforms at yet higher water levels into a menacing pour-over/hole.

Taos Box - Segment#4

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Kathy’s Cleaver

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Kathy’s Cleaver, in higher water

Kathy’s Cleaver is named for Kathy Miller, who, in higher water, attempted to pass to the right side of the rock, and flipped when her raft was shoved by the current up against it.

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Boat Reamer Rapid, with Old Fogey Rock just visible, and ready to ream a boat that gets carried into it.

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Boat Reamer Rapid and Old Fogey Rock, at extreme low water

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The sculpted Old Fogey Rock at low water

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Punk Rock, downstream view. This rock creates a giant hole at high water.

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The Gut, downstream view. The Gut becomes a very big wave at high water.

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Punk Rock and The Gut, with the toreva block that was shown earlier seen in the upper-right corner. Photo by Kathy Miller

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Punk Rock, The Gut and Screaming Right Rapid. Photo by Kathy Miller

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The Gut

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Screaming Left Rapid

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Screaming Left Rapid, view upstream and to the right

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Screaming Left Rapid, view upstream

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In the Boulder Field section, Mitch’s Bitch Rock throws up a roostertail

Mitch’s Bitch Rock is named for Mitch Smith, who once guided for New Wave Rafting Co. He later died by his own hand.

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Boulder Field section

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Miller Time Rock and rapid. Thank God Eddy is seen straight ahead.

This rapid was named for both Steve Miller and his son Ethan, after they flipped on successive days in the huge waves that form here in very high water. Thank God Eddy was named such because it was the first place where one could bail out the bucket boats that we used in those days. Screaming Right Rapid lays just around the bend from there.

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Screaming Right Rapid, approaching the central rock

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Screaming Right Rapid, passing the central rock at higher water

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Screaming Right Rapid, after passing the central rock

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Screaming Right Rapid at low water, view upstream. The central rock is seen left of center.

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Screaming Right Rapid, view upstream. The central rock is seen behind the boat.

Taos Box - Segment#5

Not far downstream of Screaming Right is a great surf hole, located right of center. Look for it!

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Polished and sculpted basalt boulder, river-left

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Murphy’s Rock, named for Doug Murphy, the first guidebook writer: “New Mexico River Notes”

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Taos Junction Rapid and Taos Junction Bridge

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Taos Junction Rapid

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Taos Junction Rapid, with Taos Creek entering on the left

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The striated rock at the top of  Taos Junction Rapid

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Taos Junction Rapid at high water, with Taos Creek entering on the left, and the Big Wave

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Kathy, at the Big Wave. Photo by Terry Conroy

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Kathy’s son, Brahm, at the Big Wave. Photo by Terry Conroy

The take-out is on river-left, just past the bridge. In hot weather, watch out for kids jumping off the bridge!

 

 

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Compositing and Honesty

Nice exposition on the topic of honest landscape photgraphy

Crest, Cliff & Canyon

Questions regarding the ethics and taste of digitally composited photos have been a hot topic on the landscape photography internet recently. Issues surrounding manipulation of photographs are as old as photography itself, but this most recent round of discussion was jump-started by this piece by Matt Payne entitled “Pretty Little Lies”. The topic received a boost in relevance coming on the heels of the much-hyped SuperBlueBloodMoonEclipse on Janury 31st, a celestial event that apparently inspired a great deal of heavy digital photo manipulation, and which I photographed myself. A largely justified cloud of suspicion now surrounds eclipse photos in particular, and I too have received some comments indicating that some do not trust my image as a fair representation of the real event. This is a good time to discuss both the particular image in question and my view on photo manipulation more generally.

Regarding my eclipse image, things…

View original post 1,364 more words

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Rio Grande Bighorns

In the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, NM State Rd 567 climbs from Taos Junction Bridge, where it spans the Rio Grande, to the rim of the Rio Grande Gorge. At this time of the year, a bighorn herd is often to be found somewhere along the upper end of that dirt road, and most usually in the vicinity of the hairpin turn that is situated close to the gorge rim (see Google Earth map below). Thus, these bighorns sees lots of cars and people, and are very tolerant of close approach. Why do they choose to hang out here? That’s anyone’s guess.

Google Earth map of Taos Junction Bridge area

Bighorn rams, with the Rio Grande beyond (top center)

Young bighorn ram

Bighorn lamb

The hairpin turn, upstream view looking northeast at the gorge and the Sangre de Cristo Mountains

Downstream view from the hairpin turn, looking southeast. The river is visible to the right of center, with the Picuris Mountains on the horizon.

The Rio Grande Gorge High Bridge, by evening light. View to the northeast.

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The Rio Grande in Rocks

Just downstream of Taos Junction Rapid, on the Rio Grande of northern New Mexico, is a group of basalt rocks that, at high water, are vigorously washed by strong currents. The sediment carried by the high water sculpts and polishes these rocks. To my eye, the sculpting of the rocks model the river’s waves, while the polish on the rocks model the river’s gleam. Rio Grande del Norte National Monument, New Mexico.

 

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On Aging

I will be 78 next month. Although the advance of aging differs considerably from person to person, I now consider myself to be “old”. How does it feel to be old? For me, it’s not at all pleasant. Every day, instead of discovering new abilities and new things in the world, I discover what it is that I am no longer capable of. The world of possibilities shrinks around me.

Is it possible to reconcile oneself to this? Well … it is. But it requires that one identifies completely with the fundamental purpose of life. And what is that fundamental purpose? All living things share one and only one purpose, and that purpose is to prolong one’s life to the point that you have passed your genetic material into offspring. An ancillary purpose that one sees in some organisms (like us) is to provide support to those offspring and, if possible, their offspring. That’s it. The purpose of life is the continuation of itself. There is no “higher” purpose.

How did this come to be? In an otherwise purposeless universe, a particular organization of matter appeared that was somehow capable of maintaining itself against the forces of disorganization. It persisted. And the subsequent evolution of life is the story of how new forms of persistence (i.e. species) appeared over time, leading right up to this moment. The key innovation of evolution was, of course, reproduction – the placing of your genetic material into new vehicles.

That’s the broad view. Back to the narrow concerns of individuals. We humans, along with all other organisms, are driven to reproduce. We approach sexual maturity and become horny. We fall in love … or just have sex. Whether by choice or not, we have children. Some of us put more, and some less, effort into rearing those children. Some of us even contribute to the support of our childrens’ children. No matter how exactly one pursues the path of reproduction, reproduction remains the sole purpose of life.

I have fathered a child, which child has fathered three children, and those three children have now gained sexual maturity.  I find, therefore, that my job is almost over. My sole remaining duty is to assist my wife in contributing to the well-being of her child and grandchildren, although they are not related to me. Now, supporting my wife’s reproductive success is the greatest service I can provide to her, as she provided to me. My job will truly be done when those children make it safely to sexual maturity (well … there’s just one more thing I will need to do. I will need soon to get out of the way of my descendants, by ending the expenditure of family resources tied up in keeping me alive. I will need to die. And, of course, my dying has begun, as the aging process renders me increasingly more vulnerable to accident and disease. Aging is an invitation to dying.)

Does this way of looking at things then reconcile me to aging and the approach of death? Well … if it doesn’t, nothing else will. No worldly thing can substitute for it. And what of those who have remained childless? They have the opportunity to assist their siblings, with whom they share genes. They can be loving and loved aunts and uncles, and improve the odds in favor of their nieces and nephews. And of those childless individuals who lack relations?  They can, as a friend pointed out, be of service to the family of humanity and our only home, the Earth.

So, am I reconciled? I am reconciled and will complain no more.

 

 

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Southwest Airlines Aerial Views, 12-19-17 and 12-26-17

After visiting the West Coast earlier in the month, Kathy and I returned to the San Francisco Bay Area for the Holidays. The round-trip flights on this occasion provided lots of photographic opportunities. For the the Albuquerque to Oakland flight we took window seats on the side of the plane that would face north, knowing that the plane would pass immediately to the south of the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.

View of Albuquerque from the west

13 volcanic necks just east of Mt. Taylor

The eastern part of the Grand Canyon, with the South Rim visible at bottom

A wider angle view of the same area as above

View further to the west than the above photos

A wider angle view

Clouds and a greater distance from the plane precluded getting photographs of the central portion of the Canyon.

The Whitmore lava flow

A little further to the west from the above photo

Parashant Wash

The Spencer Towers are a major landmark in the lower canyon

Beyond the Grand Canyon, the Cockscomb is a major landmark

The Colorado River enters Lake Mead. The river’s current ceases at the point where the brown water meets the blue water. This landmark has been moving down-lake for quite some time now, as the the surface elevation of Lake Mead continues to drop as a consequence of diminished inflow.

Over the Sierra, with Union Valley Reservoir to the left.

New Melones Reservoir, in the Sierra foothills

Tracy (CA), in the Central Valley. Rts. 580 and 205 converge on upper left.

Altamont wind turbines, and Rt. 580

Livermore

We again occupied window seats on the north-facing side of the plane for the return flight. The route of this flight is to the north of the westbound flight.

These wind turbines are found just to the north of the Sacramento River, in the area of the Sacramento/San Joaquin delta.

Lake Tahoe

Spicer Meadow Reservoir and Bear Valley Resort

Sonora and Stanislaus peaks

Looking straight down at the crest of Leavitt Pk.

On the eastern side of the Sierras – Topaz Lake, on the West Walker River.

Wheeler Mountain is located to the north of Bridgeport, CA

The East Walker River, NV, downstream of Bridgeport Reservoir. Kathy and I have fished this stretch, known as Rosachi Ranch. Our campsite is marked with an “X”.

Walker Lake and Hawthorne, NV

The Toiyabe Range

Clouds then obscured the view for the remainder of the flight.

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